Ups and Downs

The past few weeks have certainly had some ups and downs.  We’re happy to say that we can now look back, feeling very much settled in Zambia, and say the ups definitely outweigh the downs.

We were delighted to be able to have both Dave’s and my parents here in Zambia a couple of weeks ago and had an absolutely fantastic holiday.  After some inevitable flights delays and cancellations, my parents arrived in Livingstone and we very much enjoyed exploring Victoria Falls and the town.  We then travelled to Lusaka in time to meet Dave’s parents and fly with them on to South Luangwa National Park in Central Zambia.  Despite the rather large and intrusive population of frogs, and some large, noisy and slightly scary neighbours (in camp hippos!), we had a wonderful time going out each morning and evening on safari. Amongst the highlights were some very close encounters with a couple of leopards.  The six of us then had a few days on the shores of the beautiful Lake Kariba and enjoyed an educational trip to the Kariba Damn (not surprisingly, I think our parents may have enjoyed this part more than us kids, or, at least more than me anyway!).  My parents then travelled back to the UK while Dave’s parents joined us for a few days in Livingstone.

Not wanting to lay any blame on my in-laws, but this is when our real troubles began…..

I got stopped by the police for dangerous driving and had to pay a large fine (an accusation that, whilst I can’t really contest it, I think was possibly slightly unfair given quality of driving from the other drivers on the road and the state of the roads, but anyway, mustn’t dwell).  I was pleased to get away without a gaol sentence or a criminal record.  In fact, they let Dave sign the ‘ADMISSION OF GUILT’ form on my behalf, so really, we are sharing the blame.

The next obstacle was getting our visas so that we could stay in the country for another three months.  I can barely begin to explain how crazy the whole thing was.  The list of documents that we required for the visa changed every time we went to the immigration office so that we were left with a feeling that a successful application had more to do with begging than with protocol.  Apart from being completely and utterly bewildering, the process was one of the single most stressful experiences in our lives.  It had been going on for the previous 10 weeks, but with only 2 working days left of my visiting visa, I spent the first half of our Lusaka-Livingstone journey coming up with elaborate plans of going and hiding out in Botswana whilst Dave went back to the UK with our  passports to apply for visas from there.  This may seem a little melodramatic, but when our car spectacularly broke down 200km away from Livingstone (and the visa office that we were rushing to get to), it all seemed like it might actually be required.

After a very random set of phone calls which finally put us in touch with a Somalian ex-mechanic, followed by 5 hours on the hard shoulder whilst he removed half of the undercarriage from our car, we were on our way.

The next morning began early with a desperate visit to the immigration office, and I am very very happy to report, we were finally granted our visas!

We then had a fantastic day at Vic Falls, followed by the drink of the year – watching the sunset over the Zambezi.  A perfect end to the holiday, and a great way to make it up to Dave’s parents for wasting a day of their trip on a roadside – thank you again for all your support.

And so our adventure continues.  Together with a new volunteer doctor from Scotland, we set off to the villages to re-start clinics.  Thankfully, after 6 months in a garage and an entire engine rebuild, the On Call Africa landrover was finally ready to drive.  We’ve had an absolutely fantastic couple of weeks of clinics.  Having 3 doctors and a bit more experience (and a vehicle which actually performs better off-road than on), has meant that we’ve been able to see all of the patients every day.

Just as everything seemed to be going to plan…..

Sadly, once again, we found ourselves sitting on the hard shoulder of the Lusaka-Livingstone road awaiting a mechanic.  As we were headed back to Livingstone feeling very pleased with another set of successful clinics, the landrover decided it had done enough.  Once again, some random phone calls (I am really starting to miss the AA), and some negotiations with a minibus driver who was offered to tow us, we finally got through to our landrover mechanic in Livingstone.  To our complete relief, he came straight away with a proper tow bar and took us to the garage, where the landrover still sits, awaiting a prognosis.

Meanwhile mine and Dave’s car sits in our driveway awaiting parts from the UK.

Oh well, at least we have our health….and our visas.